Difference between revisions of "Backpack"

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(Removing Unnecessary Straps)
(Fixing the Shoulder Straps)
 
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==Removing Unnecessary Straps==
 
==Removing Unnecessary Straps==
First off, the bag has a lot of compression straps to squash it down when it's not full, and stop things rattling about inside.  Seeing as it is going to be completely filled, I decided to remove most of these, along with the waist and chest straps, because I'm not planning on hiking long distances, or carrying a lot of weight that needs to be firmly attached to ''me''.
+
The bag has a lot of compression straps to squash it down when it's not full, and stop things rattling about inside.  Seeing as it ''is'' going to be completely filled, I decided to remove most of these, along with the waist and chest straps, because I'm not planning on hiking long distances, or carrying a lot of weight that needs to be firmly attached to ''me''.
  
Doing this gets rid of all the extra straps that might get in the way when you just want to open the bag, or get tangled up in things when moving it around.  It also provides some webbing and fittings that can be re-purposed to tailor the bag more to FPV use.
+
Doing this gets rid of extra straps that get in the way when you just want to open the bag, or get tangled up in things when moving it around.  It also provides some webbing and fittings that can be re-purposed to tailor the bag more to FPV use.
  
  
 
[[File:Straps-removed.jpg]]
 
[[File:Straps-removed.jpg]]
  
Cut the seams open and remove these straps, then sew the seams up again:
+
* Remove straps at A, B and D and stitch the seams back up again.  Undo the two arms of the Y-shaped top of the strap you removed at D.
 +
* Open the seams at C to remove the side compression-straps, ''and'' the waist strap, ''and'' the triangular pieces where the bottoms of the shoulder-straps are attached.  Leave these seams open for now.  If you have sewing pins you can use them to stop the seams from opening up further as you work on the rest of the bag.
  
* Bottom compression straps at A. Leave the other end attached, as we're changing these from compression straps to somewhere to strap things to the bottom of the bag.
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[[File:Bottom-straps-reattached.jpg]]
* Side compression straps B and CAlso, while this seam is open remove the the waist strap, and then cut open the outer seam on the folded over triangular piece, where the D-rings at the bottoms of the shoulder-straps are mounted, so that they can be removed too for later (this gives us ).
+
 
* Full length strap at D, then unthread the other end where the Y shaped piece attaches to the top of the bag (this gives us a nice long piece of webbing, and a buckle).
+
Take the straps that attached at A, and unthread the now free ends, so that you can pass them through the short lengths of webbing sewn to the bottom of the bag.  Open up the seam shown above, and reassemble/reattach the straps there (this allows us to strap something securely to the bottom of the bag, without compressing or forcing the whole of the bottom inward).
  
 
==Fixing the Shoulder Straps==
 
==Fixing the Shoulder Straps==
 +
[[File:D-rings.jpg]]
 +
 
These are probably the worst thing about these cheap bags, because the straps keep pulling out of the D-rings the top:
 
These are probably the worst thing about these cheap bags, because the straps keep pulling out of the D-rings the top:
  
[[File:D-rings.jpg]]
+
[[File:Remove-shoulder-straps.jpg]]
  
...and the bottoms are far more complicated than they need to be, with a D-ring + tri-glide at the bottom to change the length, and then a buckle in the middle where the length can also be changed.
+
...and the bottoms are far more complicated than they need to be, with a D-ring and tri-glide at the bottom to change the length, and then a buckle in the middle where the length can also be changed.
  
At the top I took the webbing out of the D-rings, threaded the strap up through a tri-glide (the one I removed from the bottom end of the shoulder-strap) then the rings, and then back down through the tri-glide.  The double thickness of webbing holds solidly.
+
With the bottom end already removed from the bag, I cut the seams or stitching shown by red lines here (dashed lines where it's hidden behind something).
  
(I could have put ladder locks at the top of the shoulder-straps, but didn't want to remove and then replace all the stitching, so kept the D-rings.)
+
[[File:Dog-hook.jpg]]
 +
 
 +
Fitted dog-hooks in the middle of the shoulder strap, while the bottom end was free to thread them on.
 +
 
 +
[[File:Bottom-of-shoulder-straps.jpg]]
 +
 
 +
Then I undid everything so that one end of the long piece of webbing, and the triangular reinforcing piece could be sewn back in place like this, with the ladder lock I removed from the side compression-strap replacing the buckles (this much simpler method is the one used on my 65 liter rucksack).
 +
 
 +
[[File:Top-of-shoulder-straps.jpg]]
 +
 
 +
At the top I took the webbing out of the D-rings, threaded the strap up through a tri-glide (the one I removed from the bottom end of the shoulder-strap) then the rings, and then back down through the tri-glide.  The double thickness of webbing holds solidly in the tri-glide (I could have put ladder locks at the top of the shoulder-straps, but didn't want to remove and then replace all of that stitching, so kept the D-rings).
  
 
==What's inside==
 
==What's inside==
  
The bigger version of the Turnigy transmitter + goggles case (320x220x110mm).
+
[[File:Turnigy-case.jpg]]
 +
 
 +
In the main section the bigger version of the Turnigy transmitter + goggles case (320x220x110mm).
 +
 
 +
[[File:Middle-section.jpg]]
 +
 
 +
In the middle section, batteries, tools and charging gear.
 +
 
 +
[[File:Front-pockets.jpg]]
 +
 
 +
In the front pockets, spare props, and spare parts.
 +
 
 +
[[File:On-the-outside.jpg]]
 +
 
 +
An Armattan Chameleon, DYS Elf, and Alite Mayfly folding chair, and a 10m roach pole.

Latest revision as of 02:11, 13 September 2017

I bought one of the cheap backpacks recommended by Stew from UAVFUTURES, for carrying FPV Multi-rotor gear.

However, as I own a sewing machine and a box full of spare rucksack fittings, I figured I could make some improvements.

(There are a whole load of different Ebay sellers, selling bags from several different manufacturers. As there are slight differences between manufacturers, you may not end up with one exactly like this.)

What All the Plastic Bits are Called

In case you need to buy extras (add 'webbing' to your search, to avoid getting lots of other stuff):

Webbing-fittings.jpg


Removing Unnecessary Straps

The bag has a lot of compression straps to squash it down when it's not full, and stop things rattling about inside. Seeing as it is going to be completely filled, I decided to remove most of these, along with the waist and chest straps, because I'm not planning on hiking long distances, or carrying a lot of weight that needs to be firmly attached to me.

Doing this gets rid of extra straps that get in the way when you just want to open the bag, or get tangled up in things when moving it around. It also provides some webbing and fittings that can be re-purposed to tailor the bag more to FPV use.


Straps-removed.jpg

  • Remove straps at A, B and D and stitch the seams back up again. Undo the two arms of the Y-shaped top of the strap you removed at D.
  • Open the seams at C to remove the side compression-straps, and the waist strap, and the triangular pieces where the bottoms of the shoulder-straps are attached. Leave these seams open for now. If you have sewing pins you can use them to stop the seams from opening up further as you work on the rest of the bag.

Bottom-straps-reattached.jpg

Take the straps that attached at A, and unthread the now free ends, so that you can pass them through the short lengths of webbing sewn to the bottom of the bag. Open up the seam shown above, and reassemble/reattach the straps there (this allows us to strap something securely to the bottom of the bag, without compressing or forcing the whole of the bottom inward).

Fixing the Shoulder Straps

D-rings.jpg

These are probably the worst thing about these cheap bags, because the straps keep pulling out of the D-rings the top:

Remove-shoulder-straps.jpg

...and the bottoms are far more complicated than they need to be, with a D-ring and tri-glide at the bottom to change the length, and then a buckle in the middle where the length can also be changed.

With the bottom end already removed from the bag, I cut the seams or stitching shown by red lines here (dashed lines where it's hidden behind something).

Dog-hook.jpg

Fitted dog-hooks in the middle of the shoulder strap, while the bottom end was free to thread them on.

Bottom-of-shoulder-straps.jpg

Then I undid everything so that one end of the long piece of webbing, and the triangular reinforcing piece could be sewn back in place like this, with the ladder lock I removed from the side compression-strap replacing the buckles (this much simpler method is the one used on my 65 liter rucksack).

Top-of-shoulder-straps.jpg

At the top I took the webbing out of the D-rings, threaded the strap up through a tri-glide (the one I removed from the bottom end of the shoulder-strap) then the rings, and then back down through the tri-glide. The double thickness of webbing holds solidly in the tri-glide (I could have put ladder locks at the top of the shoulder-straps, but didn't want to remove and then replace all of that stitching, so kept the D-rings).

What's inside

Turnigy-case.jpg

In the main section the bigger version of the Turnigy transmitter + goggles case (320x220x110mm).

File:Middle-section.jpg

In the middle section, batteries, tools and charging gear.

File:Front-pockets.jpg

In the front pockets, spare props, and spare parts.

File:On-the-outside.jpg

An Armattan Chameleon, DYS Elf, and Alite Mayfly folding chair, and a 10m roach pole.